Cosmetic Pouch Sewing Pattern & Tutorial. Cosmetic Bag Tutorial.
This toiletry bag measures approximately 19 x 30 x 13 cm (height x width x depth) and offers ample storage space thanks to its generous inner pocket. The inside and bottom are lined with water-repellent fabric, making it very durable and able to withstand getting wet.
Instructions and pattern
1. Before you begin...
I'm so glad you downloaded these instructions and want to sew this toiletry bag. It's quick and easy. If you don't have much sewing experience or just want to sew a toiletry bag very quickly, I recommend using coated cotton instead of oilcloth, as it's much easier.
The toiletry bag is approximately 19 × 30 × 13 cm (height × width × depth) and therefore offers plenty of storage space for all your toiletries :)
For the toiletry bag you will need:
• approximately 30 cm of outer fabric. You can use cotton here, as the toiletry bag isn't very delicate in these areas. If you want yours to be particularly durable, you can of course use a waterproof material here as well.
• If you're using cotton fabric, I recommend reinforcing it with 30 cm of fusible interfacing (H250).
• You'll need approximately 60 cm of lining fabric for the base and the inside of your toiletry bag. Here you must use water-repellent fabric.
Waxcloth or coated cotton are suitable. I personally prefer coated cotton because it's easier to work with.
• 40 cm of 7 mm thick elastic for the inner pockets and
• a 35 cm long zipper
1.1 Instructions for Working with Oilcloth
Oilcloth is very stiff and the surface is slippery. Use a longer stitch length (I use 3.5 mm) to prevent the oilcloth from being perforated. If you sew on the top side of the oilcloth, your sewing machine foot may catch. Therefore, it's best to use a Teflon sewing machine foot or place a layer of baking paper between the sewing machine foot and the fabric and remove it after sewing. Generally, oilcloth should not be basted with pins, as the holes will remain. I recommend either basting within the seam allowance or using clips. Stylefix from Farbenmix is also helpful for basting.
When using coated cotton, you don't need to take any further precautions.
1.2 Preparing the Pattern
First, you need to print all the pattern pieces located at the end of this file. You must print them WITHOUT scaling; that is, do not adjust or resize them to fit the print area, otherwise the scale will be incorrect. You can check if you printed correctly by measuring the test squares. If they are 5 x 5 cm, you've done everything right. Now you can cut them out.
The "inner pocket" pattern piece unfortunately doesn't fit on one page. To assemble it, trim the edge at the top, at the level of the markings, and then glue the upper piece precisely onto the lower piece.
2 Let's get started!
2.1 Cutting
All pattern pieces already include a 1 cm seam allowance. The gray line in the diagrams is the seam line.
In total you will need:
• 1 flap cut from lining fabric on the fold
• 2 outer pockets cut from outer fabric on the fold
• (2 outer pockets cut from interfacing on the fold, omitting the seam allowance)
• 2 base pieces cut from lining fabric on the fold
• 4 pockets for the inner compartments cut from lining fabric on the fold
• 2 inner pockets cut from lining fabric on the fold
2.2 Preparation
The pieces you cut from cotton fabric should be hemmed. Sew around the edges once with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch. The oilcloth, or the coated cotton fabric, does not need to be hemmed.
If you are reinforcing with interfacing, now is the right time to iron the interfacing onto the cotton fabric.
2.3 Flap
For the flap, fold the fabric piece parallel to the longer edge. The fold line is therefore also the crease line. The right side of the fabric should be on the inside. Then sew along the long open edge. Now you need to turn the flap right side out and topstitch the two long edges close to the edge from the right side.
2.4 Pockets for the Inner Compartments
Place two pieces of fabric right sides together. Sew along the top (longer) edge. Then sew along the remaining three edges. Leave a 4 cm opening for turning at the beginning of the seam and a 1 cm opening at the end. Trim the seam allowances and corners, then turn the pocket right side out.
Now topstitch the upper edge close to the edge. Make sure that the seam allowance is folded inwards, i.e., folded into the opening. Sew another seam 1 cm below this seam to create a tube.
Thread half of your elastic band through this tube. Tighten one end of the elastic band and then pull on the other side so that the bag contracts by a few centimeters and tighten the elastic band on this side as well (the elastic band should stick out about 2 cm on each side after you have tightened it).
Now place the resulting pocket in the center of the inner pocket, approximately 4 cm from the top edge of the inner pocket. Stitch the pocket in place so that it is only open at the top, closing the remaining turning opening. Do not pull the pocket into shape; simply sew it in place as it is, gently stretching it out a little.
For the inner pockets, simply sew straight up from the bottom edge of the bag to the beginning of the elastic. You can decide where to place the seams; it depends on whether you need many narrow pockets or a few large ones.
Repeat step 2.4 for the other side of the inner pocket.
2.5 Outer Pocket
For the outer pocket, the top and bottom sections now need to be joined. To do this, place both pieces right sides together. The seams marked in red in the image must align.
This is a bit tricky and it looks like it won't fit. But it has to be like this! :) So, place both pieces on top of each other so that the cut edges meet, then the bottom will wrinkle. Now sew the two pieces together tightly and then topstitch the seam again close to the edge on the cotton fabric from the right side.
Repeat step 2.5 for the other side.
2.6 Zipper
Now you can attach the zipper. To do this, assemble the pieces as follows:
1. Outer pocket, right side of fabric facing up
2. Zipper, the zipper pull facing down, the top edge of the zipper aligns with the top edge of the outer pocket
3. Inner pocket, right side of fabric facing down
Now topstitch the entire package using a zipper foot. Leave approximately 1.0 cm of space on both the right and left edges; this will make sewing it together later easier.
Now take the other two bag pieces that aren't yet sewn to the zipper and arrange them as follows:
1. Outer bag, right side of fabric facing up
2. The free edge of the zipper, with the zipper pull at the bottom, and the top edge of the zipper tape aligning with the top edge of the outer bag
3. Inner bag, right side of fabric facing down
Here too, you sew everything together, leaving a 1.5 cm gap on both the left and right edges. Now, position the whole thing as it will be later, with the wrong side of the inner pocket fabric against the wrong side of the outer pocket fabric, and topstitch the zipper seam close to the edge from the right side.
2.7 Attaching the flap
Now attach the flap. Fold it in half lengthwise and place it on the inside of the right side of an outer pocket piece, approximately 2-3 cm below the zipper (it's best to look at the picture ;) ). Ideally, attach it to the side where the zipper pull ( :) ) is located when the zipper is closed. Now you can sew the flap in place within the seam allowance.
2.8 Sewing the Bag
Together Now place the inner bag pieces right sides together and the outer bag pieces right sides together. Pin them in place, making sure the bottom seams of the outer bags meet. Before you sew, you absolutely must open the zipper (and remember the turning opening :)). Now sew all the way around the bag. Start with the lining fabric and leave a turning opening of at least 8 cm on the side (of the lining fabric!). (Especially with washcloth, I would make it even larger, otherwise the oilcloth might perforate.)
2.9 Sewing the Bottom
So, now the bottom needs to be sewn into the bag ;) This isn't too difficult. You have a vertical and a horizontal seam at the corners of the bag. You now need to press the corner together so that these two seams meet exactly.
Then the seam between the floor and cotton fabric is perpendicular to these two seams.
Now you sew very close to the existing seam and then cut off the corner. For the corners of the inner pocket, you don't have such a clear marking. There, too, you position the seams so that they meet exactly. Then you measure 6 cm along the seam from the corner and sew a seam at this point that is perpendicular to the other seam (where you measured the 6 cm). Then you cut off the corners here as well.
2.10 Finishing
Now, the bag needs to be turned right side out and the threads trimmed. Then close the turning opening from the right side by folding the lining outwards and simply sewing the open seam along the seam line. The seam allowance is folded inwards. And that's it :)
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