How to Sew a Purse With a Clasp Frame. Clasp Clutch Purse Free Pattern and Tutorial.
MATERIALS
■ 13 x 7cm (5 x 6 3/4") 'Fortune cookie' purse frame
■ 35.5 x 35.5cm (14 x 14") iron-on interfacing 35.5 x 35.5cm (14 x14") compressed fleece (or padded calico)
■ 46cm (1/2 yrd) purse frame paper cord 56 x 24cm (22" x 9.5") main fabric 56 x 24cm (22 x 9.5") lining fabric Thread Strong fabric glue 2 x D-rings in metal to match your frame
■ Ruler
■ Loop turner
PATTERN NOTES
All seam allowances are 5mm (3/16") unless stated
FINISHED SIZE
14 x 10 x 5cm (5.5 x 4 x 2")
1. Iron the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side (WS) of the main fabric. Cut the fabric, calico and the interfacing pieces using the templates (DOWNLOAD HERE). Carefully transfer all notch markings onto the fabric pieces -it might be tempting to skip this, but you'll make things tricky for yourself if you do!
2. For the purse chain loops cut: 1 x strip 3.5 x 6cm (1 3/8 x 2 3/8") from main fabric. Fold the strap fabric in half lengthwise right sides (RS) facing. Stitch the long edge shut and iron the seam open. Using the loop tuner turn the resulting tube RS out and iron the strap. Top stitch along the long folded edge (not the seam edge, as this would add bulk).
3. Top stitch the long open edge of the strap shut. Divide the resulting strap into two equal lengths. Thread a D-ring onto one of the straps and fold the strap in half. Repeat with the other strap and D-ring, and set aside.
4. Pin together the two lining gusset fabric pieces, RS facing at the short, straight edge. Stitch together with a 5mm (3/16") seam allowance at the straight edge only (where it says 'join' on the template). Press the seam open.
5. Matching all the edges and notch markings, pin one of the lining body pieces to the main gusset piece RS facing. Pin on the gusset side — and pin generously as this will make sewing around the curved corners a bit easier.
6. Stitch the main gusset piece to the lining gusset piece. Stitch on the gusset side as it will give a smoother result. As you approach a curved corner, lift up your presser foot (with needle in the down position) and smooth down any fabric bumps with your fingers before sewing again.
Continue to stitch in this stop-and-start manner for the curved corners. If you end up with one or two bumps don't panic - they'll end up looking like small, pretty pleats on the finished purse.
7. Repeat steps 5 - 6 for the other lining body piece. Remember to pin and stitch on the gusset side.
Main fabric
8. Iron the fusible interfacing to the WS of the main body and gusset fabric pieces.
9. Match up all edges, and lay all the padded calico pieces onto the WS of each of the corresponding main fabric pieces, and treat each as one layer.
10. Just as in step 4, bring the two main gusset pieces RS together at the short, straight edge. Pin, and stitch together with a 5mm (3/16") seam allowance. Press seam open. 11. As in steps 5 and 6, pin and stitch one of the main body pieces to the long main gusset pieces,
RS together. Remember to pin and stitch on the gusset side! Repeat with the remaining main body piece.
Making up
12. Place the purse lining RS together into the exterior purse (which has its RS out). The WS of the lining and the main fabric should now be touching each other. Carefully match all seams and edges of the lining to the main fabric, and pin at the top edge.
13. Top stitch the purse all the way around the top edge, 2mm (1/8") from the edge.
14. Now to attach the purse chain loops to the front of the clutch. Have the clutch RS up and front facing you. With the metal ring pointing down, place the chain loop onto the purse front's top edge on the left-hand side (position the chain loop side edge alongside the purse's side seam). Pin and stitch securely in place 2mm (1/8") from the top edge. Turn the bag over so the back is facing you, and repeat this step for the other chain loop.
15. Working with one side of the purse at a time, you're now going to glue the purse to the frame (have a tissue handy in case of spills). Apply glue into the channel on one side of the purse's frame. Start at one hinge and work your way to the other hinge. Be reasonably generous, but don't apply too thickly or the glue will ooze out. Now perform the next step without delay.
16. Apply glue to the sides and top edge of one side of the purse. If you're a bit nervous you might want to protect the purse fabric that won't be inserted into the purse frame with some masking tape. Leave the glue to go a bit tacky - at least 5 minutes - before bonding. 17. Start by inserting the sides of the purse into the frame (hinge end first) then work your way up to the top corners. Use a pointed tool (such as a pair of small scissors) to firmly poke and stuff the fabric evenly into the frame.
17. Start by inserting the sides of the purse into the frame (hinge end first) then work your way up to the top corners. Use a pointed tool (such as a pair of small scissors) to firmly poke and stuff the fabric evenly into the frame.
18. After you've inserted the sides of the purse into the frame side, start inserting the top edge of the purse into the frame. Make sure you work reasonably quickly so the glue doesn't dry before you finish. Now turn the purse over to check the lining side is also inserted evenly into the frame.
19. Check the front of your purse and make sure it all looks even and centred. Adjust as necessary (you can use your pointy tool to slide the fabric purse inside the frame until all looks straight and even). Now, leave your purse to dry for 15 minutes before tackling the other side of the frame and purse in the same way.
20. Cut the paper string into two equal lengths. Take one of the lengths and, using your pointy tool, stuff the string into the purse frame channel on the lining side. Repeat with the other side. Let everything dry for about 30 minutes and then pick off any stray glue from the frame.
Clip on the chain and - ta dah! You're ready for your entrance.
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