If you've already had a go with square and hexie patchwork formations, you should definitely try out a scallop version. It’s a great way to show off details from those unusual and vintage fabric scraps that we've been hoarding, and the simple running stitch adds the right amount of extra detail.
It’s easy to make this pouch any size – just increase the size of your muslin to the width of the finished pouch, plus 1.5cm (½"), and at least twice the finished length plus 2.5cm (1"). Adjust the lining fabric and zip size as needed.
MATERIALS
- Various fabric scraps, at least 7.5cm (3") square each
- Piece of muslin, 28.5 x 34cm (11.25 x 13.5")
- Two pieces lining fabric, 21.5 x 12cm (8.5 x 5.5")
- Lace zip at least 23cm (9") long
- Cotton thread in a neutral shade for applique and a second shade to match the zip
- Perle cotton or embroidery floss
- Milliner needle
- Utility or embroidery needle for decorative stitching
- Quilter’s plastic
- Washable or disappearing marking pen
1. Trace the clamshell template onto your quilter’s plastic and cut out.
2. Using a pencil and ruler, mark an even grid on the foundation muslin fabric. It should be five squares across and six squares down, with each square measuring 5.5 x 5.5cm (2¼ x 2¼").
3. Use the template to mark 66 clamshells from fabric scraps. Trace the clamshell onto the right side (RS) of the fabric using your disappearing marker. Cut out, leaving an 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance around the curved part of the shape, but not the tip – this can be cut on the drawn line.
Appliquéing the clamshells
4. Dab a bit of glue on the wrong side (WS) of a fabric clamshell and place it so the bottom curve is near the bottom edge of the muslin and the drawn sides are touching the vertical line of the grid. The point should be touching the horizontal line. If you want to have your clamshell pointing upwards instead, begin at the top of the grid.
5. Thread the milliner needle and tie a knot in the end. Gently turn under the curve of the clamshell with the side of the needle and slip stitch the curve to the muslin, taking care to ensure your stitching is hidden. Do not turn under the seam allowance and stitch the concave or scooped-out section of the clamshell, as this will be covered by the next row. The curve of the clamshell is the only part of the shape that needs to be appliquéd to the muslin.
6. Repeat Step 5, appliquéing a clamshell in each square of the first row.
7. The clamshells in row 2 will be staggered from row 1. To start, place a clamshell, cut in half lengthwise, so that the curved bottom section overlaps the seam allowance of the clamshell below it. Try to place it so the drawn template lines are laying on top of each other. The grid lines will bisect the next full clamshell.
8. Continue adding clamshells in rows in the same manner until you each the top edge. The very last row will hang over the edge of the top of the muslin. Remove any tracing marks.
9. With the utility or embroidery needle and perle cotton, add an outline running stitch around the curved area of each clamshell, going through all layers.
Making the pouch
10. Turn the appliquéd piece WS up. Trim the top edge even with the muslin.
11. Turn the piece RS up and trim 2cm (¾") off the bottom edge.
12. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut the appliquéd fabric in half width wise. This will create two 28.5 x 16.5cm (11¼ X 6 3/8") pieces.
13. Trim each piece to 21.5 x 14cm (8½ x 5½").
14. Place each lining piece RS together with an exterior piece. Sew across the top edge using an 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance.
15. Press the seam allowance toward the lining. Fold the lining in place at the seam and press.
16. Pull the lining away from the exterior so the zip can be stitched without catching the lining.
17. Undo the zip and pin one half to the first exterior piece. Pin so the stops on each end are a little more than 0.5cm (¼") from each side edge. This will keep the sewing machine needle from hitting them. The zip teeth are placed on top of the seam between the lining and the exterior.
18. Using a thread that matches the zip and an 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance, stitch 0.5cm (¼") from the teeth to attach the zip to the exterior. Don't stitch the zip to the lining. You may find you have to move the zip pull out of the way as you stitch.
19. Repeat Steps 16-18 with the other exterior/lining piece.
20. Open each sewn piece so the lining is placed on the left and the exterior on the right. Undo the zip about half way.
21. Place the two exterior/lining pieces on top of each other, RS together.
22. Using an 0.5cm (¼") seam allowance, stitch all around the pouch, leaving a 6cm (2½") opening in the centre of the bottom edge of the lining for turning. Take care not to stitch the zip stops.
23. Trim any excess zip tape even with the pouch.
Finishing
24. Turn the pouch RS out through the opening.
25. Push out the corners and hand or machine sew the opening closed.
26. Give the finished pouch a press to neaten things up, taking care not to touch the zip.
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