Crossbody Bag Tutorial

Resilient, ruggedly handsome and ready for adventure - this bag is a real catch. Make it as a gift for the photography-lover in your life as a handy tote for their precious camera, then head off on a scenic weekend away.

 The heritage fabrics and brass detailing rack up some serious style points, plus it's simple, functional and made to last.

MATERIALS

■    1m (39 3/8") wool tweed fabric 
■    2m (78 3/4") canvas fabric
■    1m (39 3/8") polyester wadding
■    2m (78 3/4") black leather strapping, 3cm (1 1/4") wide
■    One antique brass magnetic clasp
■    12 antique brass rivet studs
■    Polyester thread
■    Black embroidery thread
■    Rotary cutter
■    Leather punch
■    Awl
■    Cutting mat
■    Hammer
■    Tailor's chalk
■    Bulldog clip 

1. Cut two 32 x 38cm (12 5/8 x 15") pieces of canvas for lining. Cut two   
34 x 20cm (13 3/8 x 7 7/8") pieces from the canvas, tweed and wadding for the outer. Cut a 18 x 10cm (7 1/8 x 4") piece of canvas for the pocket.

2. Fold the edges of the pocket to the wrong side (WS), then fold over one long edge again. Press and top stitch the double folded edge in place - this will be the top of the pocket. Position it right side (RS) up on the RS of a canvas lining piece, 10cm (4") up from the bottom long edge and 8cm (3 1/8") in from each short edge. Sew around the sides and bottom of the pocket, then sew a dividing line down it, 6cm (2 3/8") in from one short edge.

3. Pin the two pieces of canvas lining with RS together. Sew along each short edge and across the bottom, then press open the seams. To square off the corners, pinch the seams at either side of a corner, bringing them together, and flatten the folds down. Measure and mark 8cm (3 1/8") up from the point on either side, draw a line across, and sew. Trim, leaving a 1cm (3/8") seam. Repeat for the other corner.

4. Place one canvas outer and one tweed outer with RS facing, and place the wadding on top of the canvas piece. Sew all three fabrics along one long edge, then open out so the canvas and tweed are RS up. Press open the seam on a low heat. Repeat with the remaining outer pieces, then use tailor's chalk to draw a centre line along the RS length of both outer pieces.

5. Pin the two outer panels with RS together, matching the fabrics. Sew the long edges and canvas short edge, press open and repeat Step 3 to square off the corners. Instead of trimming the seam allowance, fold the triangles towards the centre and tack down. This will provide extra padding for the base.

6. Cut a 2 x 7cm (3/4 x 2 3/4") length of leather strapping. Mark six holes at either end in a rectangle shape, 0.5cm (1/4") in from the edges, as shown. Carefully pierce the holes using the awl and the cutting mat.

7. Turn the bag RS out, ensuring the pocket inside sits at the back of the bag. Place the leather piece horizontally on the centre front of the bag, 4cm (1 5/8") up from the folded bottom edge, using the chalk line as a guide. Hold the strip in place with a bulldog clip and sew using black embroidery thread.

8. Press the top edges of the outer and the lining to the WS, making sure they match up and the lining doesn't overhang. Sew using a minimal seam allowance. 

9. Cut a 140 cm (55 1/8") piece of leather strapping for the long strap. Score a line 0.5cm (1/4") up from one short edge and mark two crosses 1.5cm 5/8") up from that line, 1cm (3/8") in from either side. Score another line 1.5cm (5/8") above, mark another two crosses 1.5cm (5/8") up, then score a final line 1.5cm (5/8") up from those. Punch out the crosses with the leather punch, and pierce holes every 0.5cm (1/4") across the scored lines with an awl. Repeat at the other end of the strap.

10. Measure and mark 8cm (3 1/8") up from the bottom of the bag on both side seams. Position one end of the strap over one mark, and use a pen to mark the rivet holes. Pierce through all the layers with the awl. Repeat on the other side. Attach the rivets either side of the strap and hammer in place on the cutting mat, hammering from the back. Sew across the scored lines with black thread and repeat on the other side.

11. Cut a 25cm (9 7/8") length of leather strapping. Mark, pierce and punch one end as per Step 9. Line it up over the centre line on the tweed at the back of the bag, aligning the end with the seam. Repeat Step 10 to attach.

12. Measure 2cm (3/4") up from the front bottom edge of the bag along the centre line, then punch a hole and hammer on one part of the clasp. Add a square of leather on the inside for stability, as shown. Punch a hole 2cm (3/4") from the end of the fastening strap and hammer on the remaining part of the clasp.