A fold-over clutch is perfect for those times when all a girl needs to carry is her sunglasses, lipstick and some attitude. Exclusive easy-make clutch bag is a great introduction if you've never sewn-in a zip or used leather before - a skillset double-whammy and super-pretty to boot.
MATERIALS
50 x 65cm (20 x 26") each of: cotton fabric for the main bag, cotton fabric for the lining and medium-weight fusible (iron-on) interfacing
Light-weight leather, suede or faux leather, 25 x 15cm (10x6") 20cm (8") nylon close-ended zip
Polyester sewing machine thread
Sewing machine zip foot
Sewing machine non-stick or Teflon-coated foot Sewing machine needle for leather
Small clips for holding leather in place
Mini trigger clasp for attaching a leather lace to your zip pull-tab
PATTERN NOTES
All seam allowances are 1cm (1.2") unless otherwise stated
Sewing leather
Most domestic sewing machines can sew light- to medium-weight leather or suede. A machine needle specifically for leather is essential as it has a 'swordshaped' point that shears through the leather. A Teflon-coated or non-stick machine foot will also help you to sew leather and vinyl smoothly. Use clips to hold the leather together as pins will scar.
1. Cut out two rectangles measuring 30 x 23cm (12 x 9") from the main fabric and lining fabric, and four from the interfacing.
2. With the leather piece right side (RS) up, cut out four triangles from the templates (DOWNLOAD HERE), and a strip of leather measuring about 25cm x 5mm (10 x 1/4") for your zip pull.
3. Iron the interfacing to the back of each fabric piece, following the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Lay one of your main fabric pieces RS up and clip the leather triangles RS up to the bottom corners, lining up the sides of the triangles with the fabric. Repeat for the other main fabric piece.
5. Fit your leather needle and non-stick foot to your machine and set it to a 4mm-long straight stitch. Carefully top stitch along the diagonals of the leather corners 3mm (1/8") from the edge.
6. Hand- or machine-sew a few stitches at the open end of the zip for a neat finish.
7. Place one piece of lining fabric RS up. Position your zip on top of this, along the short edge, also RS up. Place one piece of the main fabric on top wrong side (WS) up to create a 'zip sandwich'. Pin or clip this together ensuring that the pieces are aligned.
8. Fit the zip foot and standard needle to your machine, and set it to a 3mm-long straight stitch. Sew along the top edge of the zip sandwich. Now flip the exterior fabric over.
9. Place the second lining piece RS up. Lie the zip sandwich you just made on top, also RS up. Lie the second exterior piece on top, WS up. Align and pin in place, then stitch along the top edge as in step 8. Flip the exterior fabric over. You'll now have two 'sandwiches' joined at the top by the zip.
10. Using a co-ordinating thread and a stitch length of 4mm, top stitch along both zip edges on the RS exterior pieces at 5mm (1/4") from the zip edge.
11. With the zip open, match the two main fabric pieces RS together, and the two lining pieces RS together. Match up the leather corner trims between the front and back pieces, and then clip or pin in place all around the bag. Sew a 3mm straight stitch around both the lining and exterior pieces, leaving a 10cm (4") gap in the bottom of the lining for turning.
12. Trim off any excess leather within the seam allowance and trim into the corners to help give them a nice shape when turned. Press open the seams, avoiding the leather corners.
13. Pull the bag's outer fabric through the hole in the lining. Push out all corners using a blunt tool.
14. Press the seams into the hole left in the lining and top stitch 3mm (1/8") from the edge of the fabric to close the hole.
15. Push the lining into the bag and press with a warm iron. Close the zip, and then fold over the top of the bag to the desired height, and press. Thread the leather lace through your mini trigger clip and tie a knot. Clip on your zip-pull, and enjoy your new bag.
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