How to Sew a Square Makeup Bag. DIY boxy makeup bag FREE sewing tutorial and pattern.
Preparation:
At our house, we were looking for a small pouch that:
1.) our little one could use for her "makeup kit,"
2.) would fit easily into a handbag,
3.) could be sewn very quickly and simply, and
4.) would be perfect for absolute beginners.
I came up with the idea for this pattern because my daughter already has a similar pouch, and I thought about how I could recreate it as simply as possible, with a few adjustments.
The result is a pattern that consists of just a single piece.
The finished pouch measures approximately 12 x 10 x 4 cm.
The instructions are very detailed and ideally suited for those new to sewing.
Please print the pattern without any page scaling (set to "actual size" or 100%).
Use the test square to verify the scale.
The pattern is best suited for fabrics that do not fray or require edge finishing—such as coated cotton or oilcloth (perhaps an old garden tablecloth?). You could also use a sheet of felt.
You can also use (non-stretch) cotton; however, in that case, you should apply fusible interfacing (I recommend F220) and, for extra security, finish all edges with a zigzag stitch.
For this tutorial, I used coated cotton.
TIP: When working with oilcloth or coated fabrics, it is best to use fabric clips, as sewing pins can leave permanent, unsightly holes. If you do not have clips, try to use as few pins as possible.
You will need the following materials:
- 30 x 30 cm coated cotton / oilcloth
- 26 cm zipper (continuous zipper)
- OPTIONAL: If you are sewing with regular cotton, 30 x 30 cm fusible interfacing (F220)
The Pattern:
Cut out your piece on the fold. This means folding the fabric in half and placing the long edge of the pattern piece (marked "fold") along the fabric's fold line. Cut around the pattern, but do not cut along the fold line itself. When you unfold the fabric, you will have one large, symmetrical piece.
A seam allowance of 0.7 cm is already included in the pattern.
You will need your single pattern piece, the zipper (including the slider), a pair of scissors, sewing pins—or, even better, sewing clips—a small ruler or measuring tape, and thread in the color of your choice.
If you are working with oilcloth or coated cotton, I recommend increasing the stitch length slightly.
1.) Place your fabric piece in front of you with the right (attractive) side facing up, and separate the zipper into two parts.
Next, pin the zipper pieces—also right sides together (meaning the teeth should be facing downward)—onto the long sides of the fabric piece. The straight (toothless) edge of the zipper should be aligned with the edge of the fabric.
Pin the zipper in place across the entire width, and repeat the process on the opposite long edge of the fabric.
This is what it looks like.
2.) Now, using a straight stitch—ideally with a zipper foot—sew the zipper in place. Stitch a few millimeters away from the zipper teeth. Repeat this process on the opposite side.
3.) Next, fold the zipper back so that the right side of the fabric is facing up and the zipper teeth are also pointing upward.
4.) Then, stitch the folded-over zipper in place, sewing close to the edge. Please sew on the right side of the fabric.
This is what your finished seam looks like from the right side. Repeat the process on the opposite side.
Once finished, it looks like this. Both zipper sections have been sewn onto the long edges, turned right side out, and topstitched close to the edge. Continue in the areas indicated by the arrows.
5.) Fold the short outer edge over by approx. 1 cm toward the wrong side of the fabric (i.e., toward the inside). Then, topstitch the edge close to the fold from the right side. Remember to reattach the standard presser foot beforehand.
6.) At the inner corner marked with the black arrow, you must now fold the entire piece upwards at a 45° angle. (see 2nd image) The fabric should now be positioned with the right sides facing each other.
PLEASE NOTE: Later, you will need to repeat this process for all inner corners marked with green arrows.
7.) At the spot marked in the image, sew the two sides together along the length of the black line.
This is what the finished seam looks like. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other three inner corners. This will form the bottom of the little pouch.
On a finished page, it then looks like this.
And once all four corners are sewn, it looks like this.
8.) Next, the zipper is attached. You can find many videos and tutorials on this online.
Please make sure that the edges of both fabric pieces remain at roughly the same level. See the line in the image.
OPTIONAL: If you wish, you can now secure the ends of the zipper. This will happen automatically later on, but doing it now—specifically at the open end of the zipper—might make it a bit easier to attach it to the bottom of the bag.
9.) Now, sew the top section (the part containing the zipper) to the base. To do this, fold the excess zipper section downward so that its edge aligns with the edge of the side panel, and pin the edges together, right sides facing each other.
Sew along the edge using a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Repeat this process for all sides of the bag. Make sure to leave the zipper slightly open; otherwise, you may have trouble turning the bag right-side out later.
Once it’s all sewn up, it looks like this...
10.) Finally, the bottom piece must be attached to the top part. This might be a bit fiddly, but otherwise, there will be a gap on the sides of your bag.
Keep your bag turned inside out. Sew either directly along the existing seam or (for design purposes) a few millimeters parallel to and above the seam you made in step 5. This joins the bottom part of the bag to the top part and closes the opening.
Now turn the bag right side out. Enjoy using it!
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