DIY Sewing Machine Cover Tutorial ~ DIY Tutorial Ideas!

How to Make a DIY Sewing Machine Cover - Free Pattern! Sewing tutorial: learn how to sew a sewing machine cover to protect your sewing machine.

The first steps might sound a little complicated due to the measuring, but don't be fooled. The cover is actually very quick to sew once you have the correct measurements!

Important beforehand:

Please read the instructions completely first.

The measurements given here are designed for the Brother Innovis 10-50. I sew on the 350 myself, and the covers fit quite well on that one too.

For all other machines, you will need to measure separately or check whether our measurements are suitable.

Please measure the following lengths:

- Width (including handwheel!) (45 cm in our case)
- Depth at the bottom of the machine (21 cm in our case)
- Depth at the top of the machine (16 cm in our case)
- Height including all spool holders, etc. (32 cm in our case)

- Left distance from handle to floor (48cm in our case)
- Right distance from handle to floor (43cm in our case)
- Width of carrying handle (16cm in our case)

Finally, the width of the handles (10cm and 7cm in our case).

Let's get started! ;-)

You will need:

- 50cm of woven fabric
- approx. 70cm of H640 fusible fleece

(based on our measurements; adjust accordingly if necessary)

Based on your measurements, you will need 6 pattern pieces:

1 x front piece
1 x back piece
1 x left side piece
1 x right side piece
1 x front handle piece
1 x back handle piece

Here you can see it cut out. Please remember the seam allowance, which you either calculate when measuring or add now when cutting. I have already included a seam allowance of 0.7 in the given dimensions.

Iron all cut pieces neatly with the volume fleece.

Finish all raw edges, either with an overlock machine or a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine. The bottom long edges of the front and back pieces, as well as the wider side of each side piece (not the long edges!), are finished last.

All the cut pieces are now finished. Here you can see again that I left the bottom edges unfinished.

Now take the two small pieces for the handle (parts 4 & 5) and fold one long edge of each piece approximately 0.7 cm to the left side. Then topstitch close to the edge from the right side, approximately 0.5 cm from the fold.

This is how both short parts should now look:

Now, place the two pieces right sides together in the corners of the left side panel as shown, and sew them in place with a straight stitch, one presser foot's width from the edge, as indicated. This is the narrower side, since the machines taper towards the top. On our machines, the left side panel is the longer of the two. Check if this is the case for yours as well.

Here's a clearer overview:

Now fold the pieces to the right and topstitch close to the edge.

Repeat the steps with the right side panel.

Now the handle hole is completely framed and all 4 sides are stitched.

Now mark the center of the entire side panel and the front panel. (If you want to sew piping as a decorative element along the edges, now is the perfect time to do so! Only then can you sew the pieces together.)

Starting from the center, pin or baste the front piece to the entire side piece, right sides together. (If you start from the marked center point each time, both sides will end symmetrically.) Sew both pieces together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

This is how it should look now!

Repeat all steps on the reverse side.

Now finish the entire bottom edge of the fabric in one step. Again, use an overlock machine or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

Now fold the bottom hem over by about 2 cm and pin it securely.

Stitch the hem firmly from the outside with a distance of about 1.5cm.

Almost done! To give the cover a nicer shape, it's recommended to fold the two long seams together again and topstitch them very close to the edge from the outside. (If you've sewn in piping, this step is unnecessary!)