This is a fairly simple design, great for a beginner. Appliquing the raw edge scallops is a great exercise for sewing curves, if you'd like some practice with that.
The great thing about the scallops being raw edged is that you don't have to be perfect. You can always throw the bag into the wash after you've sewn it all up to get that ravely look on the edges, which would probably disguise any imperfect stitches.
If you don't want the ravely look I suppose you turn under the edge, but that seems like an awful lot of work - I don't have that kind of patience (or time). Another option is to zig-zag the edge. It's your bag, experiment - do as you please!
This is the perfect size for a child. Ava uses the original Olive tote for dance class, but I have a feeling she'll be taking these over as well. Wouldn't one of these be great to stuff with art supplies to give as a gift?
I hope that you enjoy the pattern and put lots of cute scalloped totes out into the world!
• (5) 4.5” strips of fabric, at least 26” long (to be used for the scallop rows)
• 1/2 yard muslin for bag body
• 1/2 yard fabric for bag lining
• interfacing of choice, if desired
finished size of bag: 12” wide, 11” tall
This pattern was designed to fit on standard 8.5 x 11 paper, to be printed
on a home printer. Various pieces of this pattern need to be taped together
to make full size pieces. Follow the markings on the pattern pieces for proper placement.
Make sure that your printer page scaling is set to “none” or printing is set at “100%”. A 1” square to be used as a scale is included on the body pattern piece.
All fabrics used are 44” wide quilting cottons.
The directions are written for using multiple prints for the scallops, though
you can use only one print of you’d like. One 25” long strip of fabric will
create two rows of scallops—one for the front + one for the back.
This was designed to be a simple, soft structured bag with no interfacing,
In my opinion, the muslin used as the scallop base is sturdy enough. If
would like more structure, a light-weight fusible interfacing will work fine.
All seam allowances are 1/2” unless specified otherwise.
Cut out all pattern pieces and fabrics:
(2) body pieces from muslin, (2) body pieces from lining, (2) pocket pieces, (4) row A scallops from two 4.5” strips, (4) row B scallops from two 4.5” strips, (2) 13” pieces (no scallops) from remaining 4.5” strip, (2) 4” x 20” pieces from lining fabric for straps
*All rows are placed and sewn onto the muslin body base right side up with raw edges exposed.
Begin by placing the 13” non-scallop strip of fabric along the bottom of a muslin body front, lining
up the strip bottom with the muslin bottom.
Sew along the top of the strip to attach it to the muslin using a 1/4” seam allowance (you’ll trim the
rounded corners later).
Next, place a row A of scallops on top of the straight row, overlapping the scallop row so that it covers
the stitches of the previous row.
Sew the row of scallops onto the muslin along the top edge and bottom (there’s no need to sew along the sides).
Next, repeat the process with a row B of scallops, again overlapping the rows so that the bottom of the
scallops hit where the scallops join on the row before and the stitches are covered. Repeat with another row A, then row B. The last row B should line up with the top of the bag front. Once complete, trim the
corners of the straight row and any overlapping scallop side pieces to match that of the muslin front.
Make the pocket:
Place right sides together. Beginning on a side, sew around the bottom curve, opposite side, and top, ending on the side you began on, a few inches from where you began, leaving an opening.
Clip the top corners of the pocket to reduce bulk and around the bottom curve for a smooth finish. Turn the pocket right side out, then press. Position the pocket in the center of a lining piece, 3” down from the top edge. Sew the pocket to the lining around the sides and bottom of the pocket (this will close up the opening you left on the side).
Transfer dart markings from the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, sew darts, making sure to backstitch at each dart point.
Sew all darts on both the exterior and lining.
Sew bag body:
With right sides together, line up raw edges and bottom darts of the bag exterior. Sew around the sides and bottom of the bag.
Repeat for the lining.
Attach bag and lining:
With the bag exterior right side in and the lining right side out, insert the lining into the exterior, right sides together. Line up the side seams, and all raw edges. Sew all around the top edge of the bag, leaving about a 4” opening to be used for turning. Using that opening, pull the exterior and lining through, turning the bag right side out.
Stuff the lining into the exterior of the bag, while smoothing out all the wrinkles. Topstitch around the top of the bag a scant 1/4” from the edge. In doing so you’ll close up the opening you left for turning.
Begin by folding one strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press the fold. Open the strap up, then fold the long sides of strap to the center, using the previous fold line as a guide (fig. a). Press the folds. Fold the strap in half again along center fold line (fig. b). Press. Repeat for the second strap. Then, sew around all 4 sides of the strap, close to the edge (fig. c).
Because these straps will be sewn to the outside of the bag, turn under 1/4” of the raw short edges and press.
Attach the straps:
Pin the straps to the front of the bag about 1.25” from the top edge and 2” from the side seam. You’ll want to pin the straps so that the folded up edge is sandwiched between the strap and the bag. Sew the straps to the bag in a rectangle and X pattern. Make sure that you catch the folded raw edge in your seam. Repeat for second strap on the other side of the bag.
That’s it—enjoy your bag!