Square Dance Bag. How to sew Patchwork Tote. Quilted Bag Free Sewing Tutorial.
Whether it’s shopping or heading for the beach, this capacious tote will carry everything you need. By arranging the blocks in columns with the same background colour, the eccentric inner squares seem to dance. It is so simple that anyone can tackle it – a real ‘light ulb’ moment!
Improvised blocks will be as unique to you as your handwriting so do not worry if your version does not look exactly the same as mine.
MATERIALS
One Pack of eight Oakshott Parma Violet fat eighths*
1m (1yd) of Oakshott Sweet Pea*
70 x 88cm (27½ x 34½in) rectangle of wedding
Thread for piecing
Variegated thread for quilting
*Note: Oakshott fat eighths measure 25 x 68.5cm (93 x 27 in) and a metre of Oakshott fabric measures 137 x 100cm (54 x 39 in) both of which are wider than standard quilting cottons.
FINISHED SIZE
Approx. 39.5 x 31.5 x 13cm (15½ x 12½ x 5in)
PREPARATION
Unless otherwise stated all seams should be made by placing fabrics right sides together and stitching in from the edge. Read through all the instructions before starting.
Cutting instructions
1 From each of the fat eighths, cut three 8in squares. Save the remaining fabric for use in the binding. This will produce a total of twenty-four squares. Fig 1
2 From the 1m of fabric cut an 18in wide strip from the shortest edge, saving the remainder for backing/lining, Fig 2. From this 18in strip, cut the following pieces:
• Six 2½ x 18in strips for the binding
• Two 4 x 18in strips for the handles
3 From the wadding cut:
• Two 17 x 1in strips
• One 26 x 34in rectangle
Making the blocks
1 Arrange the twenty-four 8in squares into eight sets of three different coloured fabrics.
2 Working on one set of squares at a time, pile the three squares directly on top of each other lining up the edges carefully on a small cutting mat.* With a ruler and rotary cutter make two angled cuts through all three layers of fabric similar to those shown in Fig 3. No exact measurements are given since this part of the piecing is improvised, your version will vary from those shown.
*Note: If possible, use a small cutting mat so you can turn the mat round easily to make each pair of angled cuts.
3 Move the two outer sections away from the centre, taking care to keep the piles lined up.
4 Make two further angled cuts through all the layers across the centre section, without cutting through the outer sections. Move the outer sections away from the centre, as before. Fig 4
5 Repeat steps 2 to 4 with the newly created centre square, taking care to keep all the piles together and not to cut through any of the outer sections as you go. Figs 5 and 6
6 Separate the piles of fabric in each section and lay out three blocks so that each one has a different fabric for the centre, middle and outer round. Fig 7
7 Working on one block at a time, sew the pieces of fabric back together in the reverse of the order which they were cut. Starting with the centre section (1) stitch pieces (2) and (3) to their correct sides. Fig 8
8 When you have sewn pieces (1), (2) and (3) together, position this sub-block where sections (4) and (5) are widest, Fig 9, and stitch these to their respective sides, Fig 10. Trim off any overhanging parts in line with the edge of the block, Fig 11.
9 Repeat step 8 to add sections (6) and (7). Fig 12
10 Repeat step 8 to add sections (8) and (9). Fig 13
11 Repeat steps 7 to 10 with each of the other two blocks from this set. Fig 14
12 Repeat steps 2 to 11 with each of the other seven sets of fabric. This will give you a total of twenty-four blocks
13 Measure each of your blocks and find the smallest one. Square the smallest block up and cut all the other twenty-three blocks to exactly the same size as this one. Depending on the angle of your cuts, and your seam allowance you may find you end up with anything from 5in to 5¾in squares, any of these is fine – your bag will be a little bit bigger or smaller accordingly. As long as all the blocks are trimmed to the same size this pattern works.
14 Lay out the blocks for your bag in four rows of six blocks. Helen has set the blocks with the outer colour the same in each row, so the middle squares float, but you could make a completely different arrangement if you prefer. Fig 15
15 Sew the blocks together in rows then press the seams in each row in the opposite direction to the one above it.
16 Pin the rows together, matching the intersecting seams carefully, and sew each in turn. Press all the long seams in the same direction.
Quilting and binding
1 Give the finished patchwork panel and the backing fabric a good press and remove any stray threads. Layer the bag by placing the backing fabric wrong side up on a clean flat surface, followed by the wadding and then the patchwork panel, centred with the rightside up. Trim the backing level with the wadding, these will be slightly larger than the patchwork panel. Pin or tack the layers together.
2 Quilt as desired. Helen used variegated thread to sew a series of wavy lines down the long axis of the panel, approximately ½in apart. Fig 16
3 When you have finished quilting, trim the excess backing and wadding as close as possible to the edge of the blocks, squaring up the sides if necessary.
4 Take the six 2½in binding strips, then cut some 2½in wide strips from the leftover pieces from your original fat eighths. Don’t worry if these are short, it is nice to get a little pop of a different colour in the binding. Square up the ends and, arranging the colours as you please, sew them together on their 2½in edges to form one continuous length that is at least 8in longer than the combined sides of your quilted panel. Press the seams open.
5 Press the binding strip in half along its length, wrong sides together, so it is now 1¼in wide.
6 Working from the wrong side and starting part way down one edge, match the raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of the quilted panel and sew with a ¼in seam. Fold a mitre at each corner and join the ends neatly.
7 Fold the binding to the right side of the quilted panel and machine stitch in place. If your machine has some fancy stitches you could use one here.
Making the handles
1 Take one of the two 4 x 18in strips and press in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Unfold and press each half in half again. Fig 17
2 Encase one of the strips of wadding (which will be slightly shorter than the fabric at each end) in the folds and refold in half again. Pin all the layers together.
3 Stitch each edge of the handle and down the middle for strength. Fig 18
4 Repeat steps 1 to 3 with the other 4 x 18in strip to make the second handle. 5 Take one of the handles, position it centred on one of the shorter ends of the right side of the quilted panel, 4in apart. Fig 19
6 On both ends fold under the first ½in of fabric (with no wadding) to hide the raw edges and pin in place. Sew with a reinforced cross for strength. Fig 20
7 Repeat step 5 and 6 with the second handle at the opposite end of the quilted panel.
Bag construction
1 Fold the quilted panel in half wrong sides together so the short ends meet each other, Fig 21. Starting on one side of the bag, butt the bound edges of the panel together lining up the top corners carefully, Fig 22, being careful not to overlap the edges.
2 Set your sewing machine to a wide, short zigzag stitch and sew the two bound edges together making sure they stay butted up without overlapping, Fig 23. Sew as far as you can down the seam, Fig 24, you can usually get 1½ to 2in from the point. Back stitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Go over the same seam twice more, backstitching at either end to ensure a really strong seam. Fig 25
3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the other side of the bag.
4 To shape the base of the bag, turn it inside out and, working on one corner, flatten the corner to a point with the seam in the middle and mark a 5in line at right angles to the seam, Fig 26. Pin the layers together.
5 Stitch across the line, back stitching at both ends for strength. Fig 27
6 Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other corner.
7 Hand stitch the points of each corner into the bottom, catching the stitching in the lining and wadding, not going all the way through to the other side. Turn your bag back in the right way and it is ready to use.
HANDY HINT
Oakshott fabrics have no right and wrong side, so take care when piecing not to turn the fabric over
before joining sections.
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