These bags are perfect for days out when you want an easy way to carry your water bottle, sunglasses, book and purse. They are unlined which makes them easy to fold up and store in your handbag in case of any impulse purchases!
FINISHED SIZE
35.5cm (14 1/4 in) high x 44.5cm (17 1/2 in) wide x x 7 cm (23/4 in) deep.
MATERIALS
50cm (1⁄2yd) of 112cm (44in) wide fabric
2.6m (2 7⁄8 yd) of 3cm (1 1⁄4in) wide webbing If you want a contrast pocket you will need an extra piece of fabric 33cm (13in) high x 18cm (7in) wide
PREPARATION
All measurements include1 ⁄2 in seam allowance, unless otherwise stated.
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
1 Fold the fabric in half lengthways, i.e. right selvedge to left selvedge. Cut down the length of the fabric 19in away from the selvedge; trim away the selvedges and then trim the height of the two large rectangles to 18in. These 18in high x 19in wide rectangles are the bag panels.
2 Unfold the remaining piece, which should be 6in wide, and trim to 13in high. This 13in high x 6in wide rectangle is the pocket.
3 Cut the webbing in half to give two equal lengths.
MAKING THE BAG
1 Take the 13in high x 6in wide pocket. At the top 6in edge turn 1⁄2in over to the wrong side, and then turn over 1 1⁄2in. Press and then topstitch as follows: close to the bottom edge of the fold, turn and
take a couple of stitches up the side edge, turn and stitch parallel to the first line of stitching, turn and take a couple of stitches down the side edge to end where you started. Fig 1.
2 Take one 18in high x 19in wide bag panel and place it right side up on a clean flat surface. Right side up and matching up the raw bottom edges, position the pocket centrally across the width. Pin and then stitch in place down each side edge of the pocket taking a 1⁄4in seam – these edges will be hidden under the webbing handles later. Fig 2.
3 Place the bag panels right sides together and join on each side edge with a 1⁄2in seam. If you wish, overlock or zigzag the raw edges to neaten. Fig 3.
4 At the top edge turn 1⁄2in over to the wrong side and then turn over 1 1⁄2in. Make sure you have the neatened edge of the pocket facing the top edge of the bag. Press and then topstitch all around the top edge of the bag close to the lower edge of the fold. Fig 4.
5 Place the bag pocket side up on a clean flat surface. Take one piece of webbing and, matching up the short raw ends with the bottom edge of the bag, pin it in place covering the raw edges of the pocket. Take care not to twist the webbing and make sure you pin through only the front of the bag. Fig 5.
6 Stitch each side of the handle in place by stitching close to each edge of the webbing. For extra strength, where the handle is against the neatened top edge of the bag, stitch a cross. Make sure you only stitch through the front of the bag. Fig 6.
7 Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the back of the bag and the other piece of webbing, making sure that the handles are exactly opposite each other.
8 Turn the bag inside out. Join on the bottom edge with a 1⁄2in
seam. If you wish, overlock or zigzag the raw edges to neaten. Fig 7.
9 At each bottom corner –front and back – mark a 2 3⁄4in square. Fig 8. Then, one corner at a time, refold the bag so that the bottom seam and side seam are lined up over each other – this will create a triangle. Make sure the marked front and back squares match up on both sides of the triangle. Pin and then stitch across the marked line. Fig 9.
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